Seven questions you need to ask before buying a used car

Our top tips reveal how to choose wisely when searching for and buying a used car

Buying used is a great way to save money on your next set of wheels, but if you're not careful you can end up with a car that saddles you with sky-high repair costs.

With our data showing used car prices have risen by 15% over the past year (compared to 8.5% for new cars), it's more important than ever to do your research and carry out all necessary checks before parting with your cash.

Read on to discover the seven questions you must ask before buying a used car.


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1. Is it safe?

If you’ve set your sights on buying a certain model of car, make sure you check out its safety credentials first.

Our expert car reviews are a good place to start - for each, we reveal how it performed in Euro NCAP’s crash tests and our own safety tests. You can also check out full crash tests reports on Euro NCAP’s website.

Be aware, however, that Euro NCAP’s tests get more stringent over time, so a car that scored five stars in 2013 isn’t necessarily safer than a 2023 model that scores three stars. 

When viewing the car, look for any dashboard lights that stay illuminated once the car’s started - they could indicate a safety-related malfunction. If you’re unsure of any, head to the manufacturer website to find out what they mean. As well as being potentially unsafe, faulty safety equipment can be very expensive to fix.

2. Is it reliable?

If you buy new (or nearly new), you’ll have a manufacturer warranty to cover any problems that might crop up. With older cars, however, you’ll be the one footing the bill if something goes wrong. And although the seller might swear blind they’ve never had a problem with the car, you’ve only got their word for it.

This is where our unique reliability data comes in.

Each year, we survey tens of thousands of drivers about their experiences with their car, and while used cars are typically less reliable than new, we’ve seen plenty of older models that buck the trend and remain dependable as they age. Of course, there are also those that have truly abysmal reliability records in later life. 

We include reliability information in all our car reviews, but you can also use our car reliability tool to search based on the model of car you’re interested in. If specific components are highlighted as having a high fault rate, it’s worth getting these checked before purchasing.

If the car you’re thinking of buying is still within the warranty period, it’s vital to check that it’s got a service history that conforms to the manufacturer’s schedule and specification, otherwise the warranty may be invalidated.

3. What's the car's history?

If you have the registration number of the car, use the government’s free vehicle enquiry service to find out whether it’s currently taxed and has a valid MOT, along with other information such as when the car was first registered in the UK.

You can also check the MOT history of any car as far back as 2006 using the government’s free MOT check service. Scroll to the bottom of the page and you’ll be able to find out whether the car is subject to a safety recall from the manufacturer.

For extra peace of mind, you can pay around £15-20 for a vehicle history report from companies such as AA, HPI and RAC. This will tell you if a car is an insurance write-off, is listed as stolen or has outstanding finance.

4. Does it have all necessary documentation?

Every car registered in the UK comes with a V5C (logbook), which contains information about the vehicle’s registration with the DVLA. Make sure the details of the current owner match those listed on the front page of the logbook, and that the number of previous owners listed matches what you’ve been told by the seller.

The logbook also records other details, such as the colour of the car. If you see any inconsistencies that can’t be explained by the seller, we recommend you walk away from the deal.

Make sure the logbook has a ‘DVL’ watermark and that its serial number isn’t between BG8229501 to BG9999030, or BI2305501 to BI2800000 - the DVLA has previously warned that these numbers are likely to appear on logbooks of stolen cars.

A comprehensive service history, along with any bills for work carried out on the vehicle are also important to gauge how well the seller looked after it. If the car is still within its warranty period, you’ll need these to prove it has been maintained according to the manufacturer’s schedule (if in any doubt, contact the manufacturer directly to check).


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5. Where's the car been driven?

Our research shows that drivers cover around 8,100 miles per year, with nearly half of those miles being covered in urban areas.

While a car that has covered a large number of miles shouldn’t necessarily be avoided, you should ask the vendor where the car was driven and what the car was used for. If a high-mileage car spends most of its time in towns or cities, it will have lived a harder life than a car that’s driven predominantly on motorways.

Conversely, some cars (especially diesels) that have lower mileage figures or are only used for short trips may need extra maintenance in order to avoid expensive garage bills in the future.

Find out more in our expert guide to petrol, diesel and hybrid cars.


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6. What condition is it in?

Most used cars will have some signs of wear and tear - read our guide on the best car scratch removers for how to deal with these.

However, if there are lots of dents, scratches and chips to the paintwork, ask the vendor how they happened and how long they’ve been on the car. Bear in mind that any large scratches may need dealing with professionally to prevent rust.

Bring a torch with you to make inspecting the undercarriage of a car easier, allowing you to spot leaks and corrosion. Shine the torch across the body work - if you spot panels that have a slightly different shading to the rest of the car, it could indicate they’ve been replaced as part of a repair job.

It’s also important to check if the car has tyres that are safe - see our guide to car tyres for more information.

During your inspection, make sure features like the air conditioning are in working order (while a re-gas is relatively cheap, a more problematic aircon repair can stretch into four figures).

7. How does it drive?

The seller should allow you to test drive the car they are selling - if they don’t, they may have something to hide.

Along with how the car drives generally, keep in mind the following:

  • Do the car’s brakes work correctly? If you can feel the brakes vibrating through the steering wheel or pedal, they may need replacing.
  • Is the clutch easy to use? If it slips or judders when you move off or accelerate, it may need to be replaced. A clutch that emits unusual noises and has a high biting point may also require fixing.
  • Does the suspension work well? If the car doesn’t absorb bumps well, or you can hear odd noises or feel vibrations, some of the suspension components could be on the way out.
  • Is the steering smooth? If it vibrates, wobbles or pulls in a certain direction, this may mean the car's wheels need re-aligning.
  • Does the engine/motor run freely? If you can hear a knocking or tapping noise or can see lots of exhaust smoke, important engine components could be close to wearing out.

Before taking a test drive, make sure you're properly insured. It is a legal requirement to have at least third-party insurance to drive a car (read our guide to getting cheap car insurance).

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If you have an existing, comprehensive policy, it may cover you to drive other people's cars on a third-party basis, but be sure to check beforehand. If not, you'll need to take out a standalone, temporary insurance policy to cover the test drive.


For more buying tips and advice, see our guide on how to buy the best used car.